Nevis is an island with a memory. It remembers when Alexander Hamilton played barefoot in the sand before heading off to craft America’s financial system. It remembers when sugarcane dominated the land, its golden profits fueling empires while the labor of enslaved people bore the weight. And it remembers how to be timeless—an island of windswept beaches, verdant hillsides, and a rhythm so slow, even the palm trees seem to move to it.
I recently visited Nevis with my 16-year-old daughter, seeking a safe and quiet escape. What we found was an island that feels more authentic than many of its Caribbean neighbors—a place where history whispers from every corner, where horses splash through turquoise waters, and where the boat ride to get there feels like stepping into a dream.
A History Written in Sugar and Salt
In the 18th century, Nevis was the envy of the Caribbean. Thanks to its fertile volcanic soil and strategic location, it became one of the world’s largest producers of sugar—a tiny island with an economy that once rivaled Manhattan’s. Great sugar plantations spread across the land, their profits propping up the British Empire. Today, the ruins of these estates dot the countryside, overgrown with bougainvillea and offering a glimpse of the island’s complicated past.
Alexander Hamilton was born here in 1755 (or 1757, depending on whom you ask). He left as a teenager, but the echoes of his early life remain—most notably in his birthplace, now a museum in Charlestown. It’s humbling to stand on the same soil as one of the Founding Fathers, who grew up amid the stark inequalities of plantation life and whose experiences here helped shape his vision of a financial system based on trade rather than slavery.
Another piece of Nevisian history is Nisbet Plantation, famous for its connection to Frances “Fanny” Nisbet, who married British Admiral Horatio Nelson. In its prime, Nisbet was a luxurious boutique resort, with manicured lawns and a breezy beachfront that offered a glimpse into the island’s colonial past. However, Nisbet closed after the pandemic and remains abandoned today. Its haunting beauty makes it worth a visit if you enjoy exploring places steeped in history and mystery.
Lady Diana’s Nevis Connection
Nevis’s allure has long drawn visitors seeking privacy and beauty, including none other than Princess Diana. She visited in 1993 and stayed at Montpelier Plantation, a stunning property high in the hills with incredible views of the island and the sea beyond. Montpelier is still open today, offering a refined, peaceful atmosphere. Even if you don’t stay here, it’s worth visiting for a stroll through the gorgeous grounds or a leisurely lunch surrounded by nature.
The Hamilton Beach Villas & Spa: A More Reasonable Way to Stay
If you’re considering a trip to Nevis, you don’t have to break the bank to experience the island in comfort. While the Four Seasons dominates the tourism scene, The Hamilton Beach Villas & Spa offers an incredible alternative at a much more reasonable cost. Located right on Pinneys Beach, just down the shore from the Four Seasons, The Hamilton provides spacious multi-room apartments with everything you need for a relaxing stay.
We stayed in a two-bedroom suite with a full kitchen, washer and dryer, and a large patio where we could watch the waves. It’s ideal for families or travelers who enjoy the independence of cooking a few meals and having plenty of space to spread out.
On-site, you’ll also find Yachtsman’s Grill, an excellent beachfront restaurant. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, it serves fresh, flavorful dishes that showcase the island’s bounty. The fish tacos and lobster pasta come highly recommended, and the setting—right by the water—makes every meal feel special.
Just down the beach is a simple and beautiful little beach bar that serves some of the freshest and most delicious sushi I've every had: Barefoot Beach Bar .
The Journey to a Secret Island
Most visitors to Nevis arrive by boat, typically after flying into St. Kitts. The short ride across the Narrows feels like an escape into another world. As the boat skims across the water, the green slopes of Mount Nevis grow closer, and you can almost feel the island’s peace wrapping around you. It’s not just a journey; it’s a transition—from the busyness of everyday life to the timelessness of a place that seems untouched by the modern world.
The Hamilton also boasts its own dock, and they can arrange a private boat to pick you up in St. Kitts and take you directly to the property. Arriving by boat, stepping off onto the dock, and seeing the villas just steps away felt like arriving at our own private retreat. It’s a moment I won’t soon forget.
Exploring Nevis: Horses, Hills, and High Peaks
One of the most unforgettable experiences we had on Nevis was a horseback ride that began in the lush hills and ended in the sea. The trail wound through green pastures and tropical forests, offering sweeping views of the ocean as we descended toward the beach. Once we reached the water, the horses waded in, their hooves splashing through the surf as the sun dipped lower in the sky. It’s a timeless, almost cinematic experience that I highly recommend.
For those who prefer hiking to horseback riding, the island offers another challenge: Mount Nevis. This dormant volcano rises steeply from the center of the island, shrouded in mist and rainforest. The hike is not for the faint of heart—it’s steep, muddy, and requires scrambling over rocks and roots. But for those who make it to the summit, the reward is spectacular. On a clear day, you’ll have panoramic views of the surrounding islands and the vast expanse of the Caribbean Sea.
Nevis Today: Quiet, Safe, and Delicious
Unlike some Caribbean islands that have been overrun by resorts and cruise ships, Nevis remains wonderfully underdeveloped. The locals are warm and welcoming, and the vibe is one of easy hospitality. It’s safe, too—I felt completely comfortable exploring the island with my daughter, whether we were wandering through Charlestown or hiking along its trails.
And then there’s the food. The island’s volcanic soil creates a unique microclimate, perfect for growing fresh, flavorful produce like mangos, bananas, breadfruit, and coconuts. Add to that the fresh fish and conch pulled from the surrounding waters, and you have a cuisine that’s as vibrant as the island itself. Even casual meals feel like a celebration of the island’s natural bounty.
Why Nevis?
Some islands shout. Nevis whispers. It’s a place for travelers, not tourists—those who value history, nature, and a slower pace of life. It’s for those who want to taste real Caribbean flavors, walk through the echoes of the past, ride horses into the surf, and wake up to the sound of waves instead of alarm clocks.
My daughter and I left Nevis reluctantly, already planning our return. For now, it’s enough to know that somewhere in the Caribbean, there’s an island that hasn’t forgotten how to be wild, quiet, and beautiful all at once.
Some of our favorite spots:
and of course, the world famous Sunshine's!
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